There will inevitably be some duplicaton between the two sites with pages that are relevant to sailing within and without the Mediterranean on both sites. These will all have the same page name so don't worry too much.
THIS SITE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION AND NEW PAGES AND ADDITIONAL INFO TO EXISTING PAGES WILL BE ADDED WHEN AND WHERE I CAN ...
Good food, Cooking and Sailing around the World
title of Rod Heikell's latest writing only hints at this book's content
and coverage. Five years ago the author and his wife, Lu, set out on a
circumnavigation and the opening part of The Tradewind Foodie is an
account of the successive eastbound passages first to the Caribbean and
then on through the Panama Canal to the Pacific, Australia and the
Indian Ocean. There's plenty of practical advice as well as entertaining
asides in Rod's inimitable style on the incidents that contributed to
the adventure. Throughout, however, there is a slant towards
provisioning, cooking on board and discovering food and restaurants at
the numerous landfalls.
Rod Heikell provides an extensive selection of tried and tested dishes in the second part of the book. Cooking at sea is an art and Rod's selection provides a great range of recipes that are practical under most sea conditions.
Mediterraneo is the Italian for this wonderful enclosed sea and is where we get the present day name from.
The Unlikely Tale of Two Small Boat Voyages to the Mediterranean
1976 Rod Heikell set off for the Mediterranean in Roulette, a 20 foot
boat that should probably have never left the sheltered waters of the
Solent. Via the French Canals and Biscay he somehow got there and sailed
to Corsica, Italy and on to Greece. This book records the near
disasters, and highs and lows of a voyage which shaped his life in ways
he never imagined. He became the accidental sailor and developed a
life-long love of sailing and exploring the seas. In 1987 he took
Rozinante, a Mirror Offshore 18, down the Danube, behind the Iron
Curtain to the Black Sea and Aegean, probably the longest voyages one of
these tubby little craft has made. These were simple voyages on small
yachts with minimal equipment that shaped what Rod
was to do in ways he never envisaged. 'It's a mystery, an accident' he is fond of saying when asked how it all started.
Rod has gone on to write yachting guides to many of the Mediterranean countries, on the Indian Ocean and on routes and landfalls around the world. His latest book, The Trade Wind Foodie is on food, a subject dear to his stomach.
Also available as a Kindle ebook.
The Trade Wind Foodie and The Accidental Sailor can be found at Imrays, Amazon, W H Smith, Alibris and all those sort of web sites. As well as places like Nautical Mind and Sailing Books in SA. And of course independent bookshops and chandlers.
This web site will record, though not in any structured way, travelling with Skylax in the Mediterranean. Some of you may be familiar with some of the sailing guides I've written for the Mediterranean and other parts of the world and a lot of you will not. This site is not intended to plug those books although I may put up some of the supplements that we do for them and inevitably I will mention things about them. It's what I do. It's what I've done for over 30 years.
It is intended to be a lot looser with descriptions of some of the places we sail, on the joys and sheer graft of fixing and maintaining the good ship Skylax, of things on the fringes of the nautical mainstream, on the bizarre addiction to sailing that many of us have that is detrimental to the wallet and often uncomfortable and scary. Try explaining it to those who dwell on the hard bits they call land and you end up muttering some inanity about freedom and romance and self-sufficiency until you see the eyes glaze over and you can't stand to answer questions like 'What do you do all the time' ...anymore. But I'll try. Especially the romance and the addiction to life under sail.
Before Lu and I got married I had to tell her that I would always spend more money on a mistress than a wife. The mistress at that time was a previous boat, seven tenths, a Cheoy Lee Pedrick 36. ‘Likewise’, she replied, ‘just as I will always spend money on my lover’. So it was a match made in heaven and the two of us have always put the boat first.
Lu is my muse, my shipmate, the one I bless at three in the morning when she comes up to take her watch. She loves getting the boat set up and sailing at its best and she does it all with that smile and hicuppy laughter. She is also the boat electrician, more patient and knowledgeable than me on marine electrics.
Skylax, our present boat is a Warwick Cardinal 46, designed by fellow kiwi Alan Warwick and built by the Tania Yard in
She had been neglected for three years or more. Her equipment was old and in any case the girl had suffered what must have been a fairly direct lightening strike. The B&G instruments, the black box linking autopilot and instruments, radar, SSB, smart charger, all of them contained gobs of molten PCB’s and were never going to work again. The grounding plate on the outside of the hull had been blown clean away by the strike. Her sail inventory was tired, the rigging needed replacing, her other electrics and the plumbing were a mess. The tender was useless and her liferaft was destined for the rubbish tip.
So we bought her. The price was around 35 to 45 percent less than other Cardinal 46’s on the market. She had beefed up floors and stringers and her construction elsewhere was stout. Her shape looked easily driven and so it has proved. Her layout was an odd one that just happened to suit us.
Lu and I spent two months fixing what we could to get her ready for sea. Rigging, plumbing, instruments, radar, autopilot. The list seemed endless. Our shakedown cruise was from Fort Lauderdale to the BVI's in one hit. That was when we knew she was a sweet boat.
On the northeast corner of Salih Adasi there are a few overgrown ruins of ancient Karyanda. The city was never an important one although Skylax does say it had a harbour, though he may have meant a sheltered anchorage - probably the bay on the east side in the channel. It was not a Lelegian town as many on the Bodrum peninsula were at the time and appears to have been a Carian/Hellenic town from the early Classical period (7th to 6th century BC? although pottery found here is dated to 4th century BC). Skylax of Karyanda is 6th to possibly 5th century BC and mentions it as his home. At some time in it’s history, possibly in 300BC, the site of the city was moved to a lake on the mainland, usually identified as that at Golkoy on the coast opposite. Here there is evidence of a Byzantine settlement, under which may be the Mk II version of Karyanda.
I have a personal interest in all this as I have long been interested in Skylax of Karyanda (c. 6th century BC) who probably wrote the first Periplus or pilot for the
Darius appointed Skylax to make the trip possibly in 519-512 BC. He sailed up the Aegean coast to the Black Sea and then east to what is now
No account by Skylax of this expedition remains and we only know of it from Herodotus and Aristotle. A Periplus of the
From my East Aegean go to http://www.imray.com
Karyanda? Skylax anchored off Salih Adasi (Karyanda?)
For a more exacting view on Skylax see Skylax and Pseudo Skylax
Mediterraneo is a film from 1991 that magically encapsulates the spirit of place. This place is the
Mediterraneo follows a disparate group of Italian soldiers sent to a remote Greek island to scout and hold it against the British. The island in the film is Kastellorizon which is about as remote a Greek island as you can get even now. Amongst the group is an artist, a farmer, a dedicated army sergeant. All of them are romantics and dreamers of a sort. When they arrive the island seems deserted and not long after there is an explosion on the horizon which is their relief ship being blown up. They are blunderers and romantics and in the confusion of occupying the island one of them destroys the radio and most abandon hope of rescue.
The island comes to life. It has not been depopulated after all, the islanders have been hiding and when they realise the Italian soldiers are not going to harm them, they reappear. Largely they are women and the very young and very old. The Italians settle down to a life that loosely could be called paradise with a hard edge. They have everything they need to eat, drink and amuse themselves. One of them falls in love with the local prostitute. Another two fall for the beautiful shepherdess who believes a ménage a trois is how it all works. The artist starts painting murals in the church. Others fish and help out around the village. Life settles into a rhythm under a sunny Mediterranean sky surrounded by aquamarine water.
It might last forever except for the war over the horizon. And end it must. This is a variation on the Lotus-Eaters theme, on escaping from the harsh reality of war and embracing life and love. Sure it’s naïve, it doesn’t explore the anti-war and embracing life themes except in a marginal way, but this naïve movie touches a chord that others can’t reach. Watch it and see the sun come out.
Mediterraneo A film by Gabriele Salvatore 1991. And yes... it has sub-titles for the English release.